Me (and The Spork Report!) in the Houston Chronicle!

Just wanted to share this really nice feature story from yesterday’s Houston Chronicle about me and my two blogs, this one and The Lunch Tray. Thanks to reporter Claudia Feldman for giving me the opportunity!

By the way, the school lunch in the Chron photo was the actual lunch served that day in HISD elementary schools: turkey and cheese on a whole grain bun, broccoli, sweet potatoes, peaches and milk. The other option that day was chicken nuggets, but we’re clearly making real progress . . . .

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[While I serve on HISD's Food Services Parent Advisory Committee and the district's School Health Advisory Council (SHAC), all views expressed here (and on The Lunch Tray) are entirely my own.]

Back to School With The Spork Report!

I want to apologize to Spork Report readers for my long absence from this blog over the summer months. I’m back now and looking forward to using this space to talk about HISD school food and related issues in the year ahead.

Because the school year has just started, I don’t yet have information to report from the HISD School Food Parent Advisory Council meetings that I regularly attend. But I can report that on the national level the new school food regulations have now gone into effect around the country. HISD was already ahead of the curve on most of the required changes, but even in our district parents should be noticing an increase in whole grains, fruits and vegetables on their children’s lunch trays, along with a new requirement that students must take a fruit or vegetable as a component of their meal.  (The current HISD menus are here.)

I also want to mention an announcement yesterday by Mayor Annise Parker’s office regarding the formation of a new city-wide, anti-obesity initiative called “Healthy Houston.” According to the press release, the initiative has these goals:

  • Encouraging urban agriculture in community, school, backyard and rooftop gardens and, where feasible, on City property;
  • Improving access to healthy, affordable and locally produced food for all neighborhoods;
  • Supporting education regarding the physical and mental health risks of obesity and the benefits of sustainable agriculture, using locally produced food, consuming fresh fruits and vegetables, infant breastfeeding, providing healthy meals in our schools, physical activity and exercise, and maintaining a healthy weight; and
  • Enabling programs that increase physical activity and exercise in schools, at work, and in communities, including those that provide safe playgrounds and parks, pedestrian-friendly walkways, bicycle paths and other recreational opportunities.

I was pleased to see that one of the task force’s 22 members is Brian Giles, Senior Administrator of HISD Food Services.  With many of HISD’s students eating both breakfast and lunch at school, improved school food and “a la carte” offerings can play an important role in combatting childhood obesity and improving the health of students — even those who are not overweight or obese.

Looking forward to a new school year ahead with you on The Spork Report!

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[While I serve on HISD's Food Services Parent Advisory Committee and the district's School Health Advisory Council (SHAC), all views expressed here (and on The Lunch Tray) are entirely my own.]

HISD To Receive Twenty-One New Salad Bars this Fall

Earlier this year I told you about a visit to one of HISD’s three salad bars (aka “Fresh Express fruit and veggie carts”), this one located at Highland Heights Elementary.

As reported in that post, HISD Food Services stocks these carts not with traditional “salad” ingredients (like lettuce and croutons) but instead offers more kid-friendly crudité such as cucumber slices, baby carrots, broccoli florets, whole apples, canned diced pears, whole pears, canned apricot halves, canned peaches, oranges, pineapple and whole bananas.  Each month, one of these foods is also part of HISD’s new “Harvest of the Month” program, highlighting Texas-grown produce.

The fruit and veggie cart at Highland Heights Elementary

I’m pleased to report that this fall HISD will be getting twenty-one new fruit and veggie carts, made available to HISD through a variety of donors:  the Houston Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Association, HBO/Whole Foods Foundation, Chiquita/Fresh Express, and the United Fresh Foundation.

The district hasn’t yet determined which schools will be receiving a fruit and veggie cart but I’ll share that information here when it becomes available.

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HISD “Nudges” Kids Toward Healthier Lunch Room Choices

At our last HISD Food Services Parent Advisory Committee meeting we had the opportunity to speak with Dr. Karen Webber Cullen, Associate Professor of Pediatrics at Baylor College of Medicine, about an innovative program she’s overseeing to encourage HISD students to make healthier food choices.

Using a $175,000 research grant from USDA’s Food and Nutrition Service, Dr. Cullen is conducting a pilot study in six Houston elementary schools to determine if gentle, low- or no-cost “nudges” can positively influence student food choices in the lunch room.  Specifically, students at these six schools are currently receiving the following prompts to select fruits and vegetables in the cafeteria:

  • Food service workers at participating schools are trained to encourage children to select the target foods.
  • Signage in English and Spanish is added to the lunch line so children know what the target foods are.
  • Teachers integrate messages about the target foods in their classrooms using, for example, writing prompts about them.
  • Information about the program overall and about the featured foods is communicated to parents in the school newsletter and sent home in children’s backpacks.

Dr. Cullen will determine in May whether children at these schools consumed a higher-than-average amount of fruits and vegetables — a likely result, in my opinion.  She’ll be sharing her data in a report and I’ll post the information here when it’s available.

[While I serve on HISD's Food Services Parent Advisory Committee and the district's School Health Advisory Council (SHAC), all views expressed here (and on The Lunch Tray) are entirely my own.]

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HISD Undergoing Intensive School Food Audit This Week

HISD’s Food Services is undergoing this week a routine but intensive “Coordinated Review Effort” (or CRE), in which state and federal authorities will be evaluating all aspects of the district’s school meal program.

Auditors from USDA and the Texas Department of Agriculture will be reviewing 22 pre-selected HISD school lunch programs, ten breakfast programs, the district’s Fruit & Vegetable program and its afterschool snack program  The audit, which is conducted in HISD every two years, will include a review of the department’s financials, the accuracy with which it determines student eligibility for free or reduced price meals, and its actual operations: food preparation, food safety, compliance with nutritional standards, compliance with civil rights law and more.  If violations are found during the CRE, federal funding can be withheld from the district.

At our January Food Services Parent Advisory Committee meeting, representatives of Food Services reported to us that the department has been undergoing intensive preparation for the CRE, including conducting pre-audits and staff training where needed.  PAC members were also given a chance to conduct a “mock audit” at West University Elementary’s cafeteria, dividing into groups and examining various aspects of its meal service.

In other school food news, tomorrow First Lady Michelle Obama and Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack will be announcing the long-awaited new school food nutritional standards promulgated as part of the passage of the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act of 2010.  I’ll have news about that development on The Lunch Tray.
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A Positive School Food Story to Kick Off 2012

Happy 2012, Spork Report readers!  After a much-needed holiday break, I’m now resuming my at-least-once-a-week posting schedule here.  And in keeping with my promise to share both the good and bad news about HISD school food, I thought I’d kick off the new year with a school food story that made me happy.

Late last year, a friend and fellow HISD School Health Advisory Council member told me about an issue with the food at her children’s school, Poe Elementary.  Apparently the school’s  principal, Jeff Amerson, was concerned about a particular entree on HISD’s elementary menu:  kids were finding the sauce on the BBQ Chicken Tenders too vinegary and were leaving the food untouched on their trays, but since they’d already chosen their meal they couldn’t go back for a different entree.  Amerson was concerned that kids were leaving the cafeteria hungry and asked HISD Food Services to rectify the problem.

I was, frankly, a little surprised that a principal was so on top of what was going on in his lunchroom.  Most principals eat their lunches away from the cafeteria or go off-campus, taking what I’m sure is a much-needed break in their day.  I’m guessing that few would be able to tell you about student complaints about a particular HISD entree.

Poe principal Jeff Amerson in the cafeteria.

But then I learned from my friend that Amerson actually eats the school food right alongside his students almost every single day.  When an anonymous teacher in the Midwest (“Mrs. Q” of Fed Up with Lunch) did this, she deservedly got a book deal and an appearance on the Today show for her concern about the food in her school.  But Amerson says he just finds it convenient to eat in Poe’s cafeteria and it’s clear from watching him that he genuinely likes to spend the extra time with his students.

When I complimented Amerson on his oversight and involvement, he modestly demurred.  But then he looked around at the students in Poe’s cafeteria, almost half of whom qualify for free or reduced price lunch, and said, “These are my children.  They don’t always have someone to look out for them.  If I don’t do it, who will?”

Meanwhile, when learning of Amerson’s complaint about the entree, HISD Food Services didn’t just brush him off.  Instead, the department sent HISD’s own Executive Chef, Steve Crisler, to come out to the school himself to assess the situation.  I happened to see him there the day I was visiting Poe, busy in the kitchen with the on-site food service personnel to see why the sauce was unappealing to the kids and to try to rectify the problem.

The only sour note (no pun intended) in this otherwise heart-warming story is the BBQ Chicken Tender entree itself, which I mentioned in my recent Houston Chronicle op-ed about HISD school food.  I tasted the dish while at Poe and the “tenders” seemed to be little more than pre-made, par-fried chicken nuggets (no doubt manufactured by an outside poultry processor) and I believe HISD’s sole contribution to the dish is to coat the nuggets in sauce.  As I said in the op-ed, it would be nice to see less highly processed food of this sort on our kids’ lunch trays, perhaps instead using our USDA commodity dollars to buy whole chicken drumsticks that we could prepare with barbecue sauce in the district’s state-of-the-art central kitchen.

But putting that issue aside, I wanted to share with you the obvious concern and proactive responses on both sides of the equation in this story – an involved school principal and Food Services working to better serve HISD students.  There are other ways, too, in which a school principal can have a positive impact on his or her school’s food, even in a district of our size.  For example, I’m currently looking into stories about individual school principals who have asked Food Services to simply stop sending to their campuses foods and beverages to which they object, like daily chocolate milk or the ubiquitous “a la carte” chips and ice cream.  More on that in a forthcoming Spork Report.

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My Op-Ed in the Houston Chronicle re: HISD School Food Reform

In case you missed it, I had an op-ed in the Sunday edition of the Chronicle on school food in our district.  I urge our school officials to reconsider the outsourcing of HISD’s food to Aramark and to assess the feasibility of a self-operated food services department, with a return to more scratch cooking.

You can read the piece here.

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Will Armark and Houston ISD Soon Be Parting Ways? And If So, Then What?

Two days ago, I wrote a post here on The Spork Report entitled, “Is Aramark Good For Houston ISD School Food?” which discussed a recent op-ed in the New York Times criticizing the privatization of school food through the hiring of food service management companies (FSMCs) like Aramark, Sodexo and Chartwells.  FSMCs, according to the Times piece, are financially motivated (sometimes involving illegal “rebates”) to use food processors like Tyson and ConAgra to turn free federal commodity food, like whole chicken parts, flour and potatoes, into far less nutritious chicken nuggets, frozen pizza and French fries.  The op-ed also cited a 2008 University of Michigan study which cast doubt on the commonly held belief that FSMCs are cost efficient and save school districts money.

Interestingly enough, yesterday the Texas Watchdog site reported that our own FSMC, Aramark, may be on the ropes here in Houston ISD:

Senior Houston schools officials are considering terminating the district’s agreement with Aramark after they say the Philadelphia-based food-services company incurred a loss of $1.9 million in district taxpayer money – a contract violation.

According to Texas Watchdog, the shortfall was incurred during the 2011 fiscal year, despite the fact that Aramark had previously told HISD that it could expect a $1.1 million surplus.  Efforts to negotiate a settlement with Aramark have reached an impasse and, according to the report, HISD spokesperson Jason Spencer has said that the district is reconsidering ending the Aramark contract when it is up for rebidding next year.

What all this means for the future of school food in our district remains to be seen.  If the school board chooses not to renew Aramark’s contract but continues to favor the idea of privatizing Food Services, we’ll simply watch as another FSMC like Chartwells (which has in the past unsuccessfully bid on the HISD contract) steps into Aramark’s shoes.  And while Chartwells has been praised in some districts for school food improvements (e.g., recently working with outside entities in Chicago Public Schools to make a landmark purchase of antibiotic-free, whole chicken parts), DC public school food blogger Ed Bruske published last spring a damning critique of Chartwells’ performance in his own district (“DC Schools Food Director Calls Chartwells Contract ‘Crap’”).  The ever-present concern with any FSMC, of course, is the degree to which the company’s profit motive  leads to more cheap, highly processed foods and more popular but nutritionally questionable “a la carte” foods appearing on lunch trays, to the detriment of student health and learning.

So if Aramark is indeed on its way out, it’s my fervent hope that our superintendent and our school board officials will proceed carefully before making any decisions about the future of Food Services in HISD.

Let’s first find out what a self-operated department would look like and cost.  Let’s find out the financial impact of really diversifying and improving our menus in a meaningful way –particularly at the high school and middle school levels.  Let’s examine whether we could follow the lead of forward-thinking districts like San Francisco USD by getting rid of our “a la carte” lines entirely, so that all kids can get a balanced meal (instead of grabbing nachos and a slushie and calling it lunch) and no Houston kid gets his picture put on Facebook to shame him for eating in the “poor kids” line.

Because while piecemeal improvements are being made in our district — salad bars at three pilot schools, new dining concepts in some high schools (on which I’ll be reporting soon) and improvements to our elementary menus — I do feel we have a long way to go.  Just last week, I saw first hand many students taking a monochromatic lunch that looked like this:

With a beverage that looked like this:

How do these photos square with our district’s own school food mission statement?

Our Nutrition Mission:  “Houston ISD will be a leader in child nutrition and wellness by providing the highest level of nutrition possible on our campuses, by providing comprehensive nutrition and wellness education, and by engaging the entire HISD community to teach our children the benefits of making healthy choices.”

We owe it to our district’s children — one third of whom are already on the path toward a life shortened by heart disease and diabetes — to try harder.

The looming question is whether our district is willing to invest the money that may be required to take its own mission statement from platitude to reality.

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Is Aramark Good for Houston ISD School Food?

Yesterday’s New York Times Sunday Review section had a scathing critique of the growing privatization of school food through the hiring of food service management companies (FSMCs) such as Aramark, Sodexo and Chartwells.

Written by Lucy Komisar and entitled “How the Food Industry Eats Your Kid’s Lunch,” the piece points out FSMCs “cozy relationship” with major food manufacturers like Tyson, ConAgra and Pilgrim’s, in which districts pay these companies substantial fees to turn whole commodity foods provided free by the federal government (such as fruits, potatoes and raw poultry) into highly processed, far less nutritious foods (French fries, chicken nuggets, etc.).   Komisar reports that in return many FSMCs receive financial rebates from processors (which FSMCs are legally required to pass on to districts, although some have been fined heavily for failing to do so) or “prompt payment discounts,” which Komisar says “are really rebates under another name.”  (FMSC rebates have been discussed several times previously on The Lunch Tray, when I pointed readers to good reporting on the issue by school food blogger Ed Bruske.)

It’s a commonly held belief that FSMCs save school districts money, primarily by reducing labor costs.  (Here in Houston, organized labor was vehemently opposed to the hiring of Aramark by then-superintendent Rod Paige in 1997.)   And use of food processors is one way those costs are reduced:  it obviously takes more and better skilled labor to prepare and cook potentially dangerous raw proteins like whole chicken parts than it does to simply heat up fully cooked nuggets from Tyson.  (This trade-off was examined in further detail in The Lunch Tray’s recent coverage of a landmark purchase of raw chicken parts by Chicago Public Schools.)

But Komisar, citing a study conducted by Roland Zullo at the University of Michigan, questions the notion that FSMCs (and, implicitly, their heavy reliance on processed foods) save schools money.  The Zullo study, from 2008, looked at various costs associated with school food including transportation, labor, food costs, and supplies and found that Michigan schools using FSMCs spent less on labor and food but more money on fees to the FSMC and on supplies, resulting in “no substantive economic savings.”

That finding that runs counter to popularly held beliefs about FSMCs, supposedly models of efficiency, and, indeed, Zullo found that when school district officials were simply asked about cost savings, many were under the impression that their FSMC was saving their district money, even when that was not the case.  On the other hand, it’s also important to remember that such cost/benefit analyses are likely to be highly district-specific, as labor (and other) costs can be significantly greater in one geographic area than in another.

Yet the Zullo study raises important questions, ones which should be answered in any district using a FSMC.  Here in HISD, for example, I wonder whether anyone has recently evaluated whether using Aramark is in fact saving the district money — not compared to the way Food Services was operated back in 1997, but as currently compared to comparable urban districts that are self-operating.  What percentage of HISD’s government commodities are being sent to food processors, and how much are we paying in processing fees?  Do those processing fees, along with Aramark’s yearly management fee and any increased costs for disposable serving supplies (which, according to the Zullo study, may be needed with fewer workers on a serving line) outweigh likely savings in labor costs and food procurement?

And finally, but most importantly, even if the district is saving money by retaining Aramark, is it true, as Komisar says, that we are doing so at the expense of food quality — and, therefore, our students’ health?

I don’t have these answers and I’m certainly not condemning Aramark’s performance in HISD based on Komisar’s piece.  But I do think these are important questions that need to be asked, and I’ll be contacting both our school board members and Food Services for more information.

I’ll let you know what I’m able to find out.

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Some Good News About Houston ISD’s New Salad Bars

A few weeks ago, our regular Houston ISD Food Services Parent Advisory Committee (PAC) meeting took the form of a field trip to give PAC members a firsthand look at one of HISD’s three new salad bars introduced earlier this year.

If you haven’t read any of HISD’s past communications about its new salad bar pilot program, here’s the background:  last year, the Houston Fresh Fruit & Vegetable Association (HFFVA) turned over the proceeds from its annual charity golf tournament to HISD to cover the cost of three salad bars (the bars themselves along with inserts and tongs, but not the actual food) with a commitment to provide funding for a total of twenty salad bars by the end of 2012.   With the help of CAN DO Houston, HISD identified three elementary schools to take part in the pilot program: Highland Heights, Frost and Isaacs.  All three schools have a low-income population (over 95% of children qualify for free or reduced price lunch) and all are located in so-called “food deserts,” i.e., areas in which access to fresh produce is limited.   All three also have school gardens.

A reminder about "cart manners"

At the PAC field trip to Highland Heights Elementary, HISD Food Services Executive Chef Steve Crisler explained some of the logistical difficulties the district has faced in rolling out these first three salad bars, including a need to educate children in salad bar etiquette (no using fingers, no putting food back, etc.), meeting the sometimes unpredictable ebb and flow in student participation, addressing hygiene issues (the district has learned to keep the sneeze guards completely lowered for this shorter clientele) and determining which salad bar foods will be most popular with kids.

After some initial experimentation, Food Services has hit on a combination of fruits and vegetables that resembles less a traditional adult “salad bar” (with lettuces, dressing, croutons, etc.) and more of fresh crudité plate.  HISD has been serving at any one time combinations of four of the following items:  cucumber slices, baby carrots, broccoli florets, whole apples, canned diced pears, whole pears, canned apricot halves, canned peaches, oranges, pineapple and whole bananas.  Each month, one of these foods is also part of HISD’s new “Harvest of the Month” program, highlighting Texas-grown produce.   Here’s a picture of last month’s selection at Highland Heights:

Raw broccoli florets, baby carrots, canned apricots, and whole apples at Highland Heights.

Crisler said the district has been pleasantly surprised so far by the students’ positive reaction to the salad bars, which are known in schools as “Fresh Express fresh fruit and veggie carts.”*  (This report says that students were actually hoarding the food at first, before they realized the carts were a permanent fixture.)  On the day we visited Highland Heights, a relatively significant number of kids did line up to take items from the cart,

Some kindergarteners get a little help.

especially the carrots and the whole apples.  (A whole pear was served with school lunch that day, but a lot of students were leaving those untouched and taking the apple instead, perhaps because the pears weren’t ripe enough, or perhaps because pears are a less familiar fruit.)  I spoke one-on-one with a few kids about the school’s new salad bar and they all were quite enthusiastic about it, enjoying the food and the freedom of choice it offered.

Right now, the district is spending an additional $500 a week per school to stock the carts with produce, food which is currently taken for free by students and is not included as part of the federally reimbursable school meal.   However, stemming from the passage of the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act late last year, changes in the way HISD menus will planned (specifically, moving from a nutrient-based to a food-based approach) means that starting in the fall of 2012, HISD salad bar offerings will become eligible for federal reimbursement.  This is huge news because it means that if a school can come up with funding for a salad bar, Food Services will soon be able to keep it regularly stocked.  (In the past, schools interested in getting a salad bar were told by the district that it could not provide the food.)

The question, then, is where do we get the funds ($2,500 – $3,000 per bar) to put salad bars into the almost 300 schools in HISD that might want one?   Seventeen more schools can benefit from the aforementioned HFFVA grant before the end of 2012, but that leaves well over 200 schools  in our district that still need funding.

One option is for schools to raise the money themselves through PTO/PTA fundraising efforts, but this raises the disturbing prospect of only affluent schools (where kids most likely already have access to fresh produce) getting a salad bar, while poorer schools more in need of the fresh produce are unable to do so.   Another option is for parents and interested community members to make donations to fund salad bars across HISD via a Let’s Move! initiative called “Let’s Move Salad Bars to Schools.”  (Interested donors can also direct their Let’s Move! contribution to fund a salad bar at a specific school in HISD provided that the school first fills out an application.)

But with over 80% of our district’s students qualifying for free and reduced price lunch, a salad bar in the lunch room is a prime opportunity to expose our children to healthier choices.  It could also help stem the rising tide of childhood obesity, which in HISD currently affects one in three of our students.  So instead of the piecemeal approaches described above, perhaps the district can be persuaded to fund the salad bars across the board, a significant but one-time investment in our children’s longterm health and well being.

_______

*I’ve heard some confusion about whether these salad bars are somehow linked to or sponsored by the Fresh Express brand of packaged fruits and salads.  My understanding is that there is no such relationship, and HISD simply chose the “Fresh Express” name because “salad bar” can be a turn-off for some kids.

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